A Practical Guide to Brushed Concrete Driveways

Why Concrete Driveways?

Concrete is a fantastic driveway material. It is adaptable, preferred for durability, appearance, and low maintenance, and indicates quality construction from the start. A concrete driveway solves all of these problems.

Concrete driveways have long been known to provide homeowners with trouble-free service. The reason is straightforward. Concrete is long-lasting, with many driveways lasting 30 years or more without major maintenance. Concrete, like many other high-quality purchases, saves money in the long run.

From the street to the garage, a custom-designed concrete driveway not only adds visual appeal but also long-term quality and value to your home.

Planning

The quality of the finished concrete driveway is always the result of careful planning. Spending time at this stage can aid in the elimination of potential problems later in the construction process. The size of the driveway is one of the first things to consider.

A single-car driveway should be eight to nine feet wide, while a double-width driveway should be 15 to 18 feet wide. If the distance from the street to a two- or more-car garage is sufficiently long, the initial entry approach can be single-car width and then widened near the garage to accommodate all car stalls. Extra parking or a turn-around area can be included if space is available. Also, during the planning stage, consider adding a concrete patio or porch addition.

For passenger car driveways, non-reinforced pavement four inches thick is standard. A thickness of five inches is recommended for heavier vehicles. To prevent standing water, the driveway should be sloped towards the street by at least 1%, or 1/8 inch per foot, for proper drainage.

Concrete can now be formed into almost any shape, texture, pattern, or color. It is a cost-effective way to add a new dimension of quality and elegance to your home.

Pattern stamping is a colorful way to dress up plain concrete paving. The driveway is essentially cast-in-place concrete that has been colored and imprinted with a pattern designed to resemble brick, tile, cobblestone, or other various patterns. Bromide, swirl, and exposed aggregate are examples of textured finishes.

Site Preparation

After deciding on a basic driveway design, the next step is to prepare the site. Consider the replacement of an existing asphalt driveway with a traditional, broom-textured concrete driveway. In a nutshell, this is how a typical site preparation goes.

The existing thin layer of asphalt is easily removed and carted away with a forklift truck. The existing gravel base can be reused, but because the new concrete driveway will be thicker, some of the gravel will need to be removed to maintain proper elevation.

A vibratory plate compactor is used to compact the gravel base. A gravel subbase is not required for a new driveway, but the subgrade must be compacted similarly.

Ordering Quality Concrete

ASTM C-94 is the American Standard for Testing and Materials specification for ready mixed concrete for driveways. By adhering to the correct specifications and construction methods, problems such as random cracking can be avoided. As an example:

Compressive strength – 4,000 psi after 28 days is sufficient for most climates.

Air content – in all climates, air content should be in the range of 5% to 7%. Air content improves workability without the need for water, in addition to improving the long-term durability of the concrete.

Slump – make sure to include the word “slump.” Suggest a four-inch slump for driveway paving. Slumps of more than five inches should be avoided at all costs.

Aggregates – designate the size of the coarse aggregate. Generally, 3/4 or 1 inch is normally used. For a slightly higher fee, chert-reduced aggregate can be ordered to help prevent pop-outs.

For milder climates, lower strengths and air contents may be appropriate. Consult your ready mixed concrete producer for appropriate mixes in your area.

Placing & Finishing

Ready-mixed concrete should be delivered and discharged as soon as possible when laying the driveway. A time frame of one to eleventy-two hours is usually considered reasonable. The sequence for laying out and finishing the new driveway is as follows.

Spray or brush all forms with form oil, and wet the subgrade. Do not use too much water. Before pouring concrete, there should be no puddles or standing water on the subgrade. The concrete should be placed as close to the finished position as possible, either directly into the chute or into wheelbarrows, and wheeled to its final location. To ensure complete filling along the sides of the forms, shovels should be used.

To smooth the surface and raise the slab to its proper elevation, strike off the concrete with a straight piece of lumber. Examine the area for any low spots. Another pass with the piece of lumber ensures a consistent surface for the subsequent finishing operations. A bull float is worked back and forth across the surface to remove any irregularities immediately after strike off. Don’t overwork the surface, or it will deteriorate. Edges can be tooled into the concrete at this point. Before proceeding with the final finishing, the surface bleeds water must evaporate. Finishing operations should be able to begin almost immediately if the concrete is properly specified. The final finish is achieved with a concrete broom. The surface should be stiff enough before brooming to retain any marks or grooves left by the bristles of the broom. A trowel finish is not recommended because it can make the surface slick and dangerous. The rougher broom finish improves traction. Snap chalk lines to indicate where joints go.

Curing

Curing is one of the most important, but also one of the most overlooked, phases of good concrete construction. Poorly cured concrete is more prone to cracking and is less durable.

Curing should last at least three days and, if possible, up to seven days. Curing methods include using plastic sheets to cover the concrete, continuous sprinkling, or applying a special curing compound. Curing should begin as soon as the finishing operations are completed. Curing procedures may need to be adjusted in areas with colder temperatures.